OEM Ford Oil Filters
How to Change a Ford Oil Filter: an Easy DIY
It's been another 3,000 miles. Maybe another 3 months. At any rate, it's time for an oil change.
Maybe you've noticed a stressed oil pump lately, though. Some worn pump bearings, or oil pressure loss (with that oil warning light on the dash to boot). Of course, if your engine's not running right either, it's pretty much official: as with air filters, it's time to replace your oil filter.
But the average cost of that lately -- it isn't cheap. You're usually looking at anywhere from $30 or so to more than $100. Depends on the motor oil (conventional, premium, synthetic, a blend), and depends on labor -- the costs in the service bay at a Ford dealer.
Either way, you're looking to save money, take care of the job yourself. You've come to the right place. We've got your replacement for less, and it's OEM-quality. Here's what to do with it for most vehicles. (Check your owner's manual for your model's specifics.) All you'll need in most cases is an oil drain pan, fresh engine oil, a pair of work gloves, filter and socket wrenches, and a mallet. Just be sure to start with a warm (but not hot) engine.
- Twist the oil fill cap counterclockwise to loosen it.
- Put the oil drain pan under the oil drain plug below the engine block; you'll find it on either the bottom or the side of the oil pan (sometimes near the crankshaft).
- Use the socket wrench to take the oil plug (and gasket, if applicable) off; drain the oil out (this can take up to a half hour or so), and then replace the plug (and gasket). Move quickly to avoid getting covered in oil.
- Locate the oil filter. The medium, the housing, the gasket -- you should be able to get to them underneath the engine bay, if not from above it (your owner's manual will tell you where). The filter itself should be labeled.
- Put the oil drain pan directly underneath the filter; it'll catch any remaining oil around it when you go to change it.
- Put on work gloves if you prefer, and then screw the filter off counterclockwise, manually (or with the filter wrench at first, if it's stuck or tough to turn, then manually, the rest of the way); oil will start leaking out into the pan. Try to do this at an angle that'll keep you from getting oil all over yourself.
- Leave the old filter face down in the oil pan for 24 hours or so, so all the oil can drain out of it before you throw the filter out. (The oil, though, you'll have to recycle. Check with a service center, a local mechanic, or a recycling center for how to do that.)
- Lubricate the new oil filter's gasket with fresh oil, covering the rubber ring around the base completely; it'll help it fit tighter, keeping it from leaking into the engine block.
- Screw the filter on manually, and gently (to avoid damaging the threads), clockwise, until it stops turning and it's flush with the engine block. Give it a final quarter-turn or so; no more than a three-quarter turn, though. If it leaks after tightening, give it another quarter-turn.
- Fill the engine up with new motor oil, using a funnel. Follow your owner's manual's recommendation on this (both on what to do and what kind of oil your engine should get).
Shop OEM Oil Filters for Ford in Kent WA
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